Every Friday, from about 8.30am to 1.30pm there is a huge open-air market on Via dei Pensieri, starting at the football stadium. The stalls come from all over Tuscany and sell mainly clothes and shoes, bags, fabrics and soft furnishings, plants and flowers, as well as a few dedicated to fruit and veg, fresh fish, ready cooked chickens and chips, bakery products and some excellent cheeses. If you are good at bargain hunting and don't mind the crush, there are some good buys to be found, especially well-known fashion labels' clearance goods on some stalls.
How to get there: take the number 1 bus from Piazza Grande or the station along the seafront, get off near the Naval Academy (ask for the football stadium) and then walk down one of the streets leading away from the sea to the stadium. Bus number 5 will also take you from the town centre to the market area but it goes a long way round.